At its best, this is an irresistibly seductive Margaret River chardonnay, and one of my personal favourites. It's difficult to find a top-flight Australian chardonnay that is as consistently highly-rated, especially one that remains at - relatively speaking - a more or less reasonable price. Generally an opulent, hedonistic, yet tightly-structured wine for those who relish lots of winemaker-induced complexity and texture (mealy, nutty and oak/spice characters) that, nevertheless, does not overwhelm the pristine melon, grapefruit, pear and fig fruit. Meticulous, intelligent, vintage-adapted winemaking on the part of Cliff Royle, including some wild yeast fermentation, occasionally a touch of oxidative handling, measured use of grape solids, limited malolactic fermentation and a sensibly low percentage of new oak. Screwcap.

2004

95/100 points from James Halliday in his Australian Wine Companion 2007; 95/100 points in the Penguin Good Australian Wine Guide 2007; 94/100 points from Campbell Mattinson (Wine Front Monthly, Oct. 2005); 91/100 points from Harvey Steiman (Wine Spectator)

Winemaker’s tasting notes: "Medium straw colour; fresh lemon zest and stone fruit characters are plentiful while toasty, nutty notes offer complexity through elegant French oak expression; the palate shows concentrated stone fruit and fresh citrus characters with a tight mineral structure. Barrel fermentation and the use of solids offer texture; bright acidity and powerful fruit are perfectly balanced". 13.2% alc.

2003

The outstanding 2002 was always going to be a very hard act to follow, but Voyager is incredibly sure-footed with this chardonnay. A whopping 96/100 points for this vintage from James Halliday in his Australian Wine Companion 2006; 93/100 points from Huon Hooke in Australian Gourmet Traveller Wine Magazine (June 2005); 93/100 points from Jeremy Oliver (Australian Wine Annual 2006).

Winemaker’s tasting notes: “Mid straw; aromas of citrus and pink grapefruit with barrel fermentation adding nutty, mealy characters and subtle oak contributing further complexity; the palate shows a concentrated core of white nectarine and citrus fruits with texture and depth derived from solids contact and some oxidative handling; zesty acid and powerful fruit provide length and persistence”. 13% alc.

2002

From an eccentric, very low-yielding vintage, with small fruit bunches of exceptional concentration, this is considered perhaps the best ever chardonnay from Voyager (which is certainly saying something). 94/100 points from James Halliday in his Australian Wine Companion 2005; 5/5 stars in the Penguin Good Australian Wine Guide 2004-2005; 18.7/20 points (93-94/100) from Jeremy Oliver in his "On Wine"; very highly recommended by Max Allen in the "Weekend Australian Magazine".

Winemaker’s tasting notes (slightly modified): "Bright straw with yellow and green tinges. Aromas and flavours of green citrus, honeydew melon and white grapefruit, with noticeable creamy nuttiness from regular batonnage. Early picking and a percentage of wild yeast fermentation, together with the [grape] solids, have given this wine lovely lean, mineral, savoury characters. Various winemaking techniques combined with high-quality French oak and regular lees-stirring have resulted in a wine with ample flavour and texture. Finishes with abundant natural acidity, providing structure and longevity".

2001

rated third overall in the Divine Magazine (Australia) annual "State of Origin" chardonnay tasting in April 2003; described by James Halliday as "a classic, fruit-driven style, with very attractive mouthfeel and delicious flavour, bright citrus and nectarine fruit walking the talk", and he rates it 94/100; 92/100 points from a very enthusiastic Harvey Steiman in the Wine Spectator (‘Hot Wines’, 25 April 2003); 4.5/5 stars in the Penguin Good Australian Wine Guide 2003-2004

Winemaker’s tasting notes: "Bright straw/gold; nougat, white peaches, grapefruit, melon, hazelnuts, roasted almond and complex barrel ferment characters on the nose; a refined, well weighted palate, with fine balance and length; beautiful, toasty French oak enveloping grapefruit, white peach and melon".